Day 1: After a drive to Mallepata we split into a shorter walk group and a longer and, it transpired, faster lung-burner group to walk to the first lodge. The latter group was all male apart from a feisty triathlete who had turned 60 the previous day. The walk gave us our first view of Salkantay (6240 metres), in our view the most beautiful mountain on the planet! The lodge jacuzzi gave us the perfect viewing position (OK, we were not roughing it!)
Day 2: A stunning walk up to the Humantay glacier, with the bonus of condors overhead. On arrival at the exquisite turquoise lake beneath, we heard the disconcerting creaking and rumbling from the melting glacier. The isolated position of the lodge led to great stargazing that evening.
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